Buying a Classic Car requires thought, research and some planning. Classic cars are usually bought by enthusiasts to use and enjoy. It is not easy to make a profit from buying and selling classic cars.
Make a project plan and do your best to stick to it
You may see a tempting classic car restoration project listed in a newspaper or classic car magazine or on the Internet that may only be one or two thousand to buy and could be worth ten times as much once it is restored.
Practically though, have you the skills to carry out the restoration of the chassis, engine, interior, and the exterior ? If you need to find a specialist company to undertake some or all the work your ten times buy price may just come down to zero or very little profit indeed. Indeed in many cases the cost of restoration when added together will exceed the market value of the car. If you plan to keep the car and enjoy using it then this is perhaps an acceptable price to pay but do not expect to be able to sell the car at a profit particularly in todays "credit crunch" economy.
Before you start looking - do you have enough storage space ? Do you have enough working area (remember once stripped down, the bits can take up an awful lot of space). No old car likes to be kept out in the open, not even with a plastic sheet to protect it from the rain, frost and snow and even the worst masochist won't like working out in the open when it is blowing a gale! Lying on a cold concrete garage floor is bad enough but working outside in all elements usually puts a restoration project on hold permanently !
Where to look for your classic car.
Look in the your local newspaper, classic car magazines, the Internet or even just take a stroll down your street. There is no shortage of old cars to buy. But what if you are looking for something special? Well, let's face it, these days the easiest place to look is on the Internet.
Go to Classic Lots (link below) and you will find thousands of classic cars from a rusty Mini for £100 to a Ferrari for £500,000. This excellent site also includes all the classic cars available on Ebay.
Once you have identified the car that you want, read between the lines and look at the background of the pictures.You can learn a lot from what is not said as well as the way a description is written.
I am always cautious when it says "selling it for a friend" and yet there is no contact number for the friend so you can make personal contact. When the subject of mileage is omitted from the specification box and the description... why?
Keeping in touch with reality is essential. IF IN DOUBT - CHECK IT OUT!!!! Answer those niggling questions. In the pictures you can see what looks like oil on the ground. Is it from the car you are buying? Is that mud or rust?
Ask yourself four questions. Why do I want the car? How much can I really afford? How far do I want to travel to view or collect it? and then the most important question of all... Do I really know enough about these cars to commit X thousands of pounds on a piece of pretty (or perhaps rusty metal)?
So, buying a classic car on an online auction? Well, I would advise you to adopt the following rules before commencing such an undertaking, and before you make a bid !
Remember if you are the highest bidder (assuming if there is a reserve that it has been met ) and you win the auction then you have entered a legal contract to buy that vehicle (providing the seller has described the vehicle correctly).
Do not expect to go to collect the car and having viewed it to be able to haggle over the price or to walk away. Buyer beware, and if at all possible always view the car in person before you place your bids. If do not feel confident in being able to asses the condition of your prospective purchase take along someone who has the skills to give you an honest opinion of the condition of the vehicle. You may also wish to consider using the AA or RAC who both provide professional pre-purchase inspections - if the seller seems reluctant to allow this inspection walk away !
Viewing the car before bidding
If you have decided to go and see the car then arrange a viewing and if for any reason you can't make it, let the seller know, it's only courteous not to waste their time just as you don't want them wasting your time.
Things to take: a jack, perhaps some axle stands for safety, a torch, gloves and at the very least, a list of points you want to look at.
When you get there take a quick look around. Has the car been kept outside or has it been garaged, this can give you a good indication of the condition you can expect of the body and or chassis. Are there other rotting hulks just lying around, maybe the seller just buys any old junk they can find and try selling it on, not much chance of the car you have come to see having had a service any time recently.
Take a walk around the car and look for the tell tale signs of sagging which could indicate suspension problems or perhaps chassis problems. Do the doors and panels line up correctly, another indication of chassis problems or perhaps the car has had a bump at some time. Is it even one car or was it once two? Any repairs? Have they been completed well or have the repairs been bodged? Do the tyres match? What condition are they in? Check for rot in the body or in fibre glass cars/panels, look for stress cracks. Check the areas which are most prone to rot ie. arches, sills, doors, boot and bonnet. There are many different types of panels that can be used to effect repairs on a car and because of this the quality of repairs can vary.
Check inside the car. Windows, front and rear screen, are any of them leaking? Is the headlining damaged or dirty? Lift the carpets where you can, check for water and any rot, maybe even holes in the floor? Check the floorpan and joints, don't forget inside the boot, the floor and spare wheel area. If you are happy so far with the body etc. try the engine (you did check all around the engine compartment didn't you?). Will the engine start from cold? If the engine is already warm perhaps the seller is trying to hide something, maybe cold starting problems, maybe he had to get a jump start or a tow just to get it going? Listen for any knocks, look for smoke. If you see blue smoke on startup that quickly clears it could mean the valves are tired and leaking oil into the combustion chambers. If the smoke does not clear that could indicate a very tired engine, something that will have to be added to the budget, not only for investigation but for the repairs.
Clouds of steam on startup could indicate a blown head gasket or even a cracked cylinder head. Remove the radiator cap and look for "goo". It is cross contamination and a good giveaway of cylinder head problems. Black smoke, probably just an over rich mixture but could just as easily be a worn carburetter.
Knocking. Well, it could be for a number of reasons, light tapping on the top of the engine could be a worn camshaft or a small end on its way out. Knocking from underneath could be a big end bearing breathing its last. An expensive repair. A rumbling noise could be a main crank shaft bearing on its way out, yet another expensive repair. Check the various hydraulic fluids and water levels. Look for any stains around the compartment and on the engine. Does the radiator smell of anti-freeze? Is there any oil lying around? Not a good sign. Keep the engine running for a while, some problems won't show up until the engine is warm. If the car is driveable, take it for a spin. How does it "feel" on the road, does it "pull" to the right or left? Is the clutch "spongy" or firm? Does braking throw the car into oncoming traffic? (eek!) Wiggle the steering wheel, any clunks? When you accelerate does the car lurch in any particular direction?
OK so far so good. Now, the car may be 20 or 30 years old so it is not going to have all original parts. Brake shoes, clutch, spark plugs, points etc.. if they are the original parts, they are not going to be working very well by now! But seriously, if you are looking at an older car, does it have any of the original panels? Is the interior original? These points can add value to the car but the seller may try to pass off parts which were made last year in China as "original parts".
Check the paper work. Does it have all of the required paperwork with it? Check the logbook, a very good place to start and don't be fobbed of with "We have just moved house and can't find it at the moment, I will post it on to you..". Never buy a vehicle without a logbook unless you know exactly what you are doing. It is also useful to have any old MOT certificates and any receipts are good as well.
Valuing classic cars.
How much to pay? Well, the actual value of a classic car will vary considerably. It depends on condition, make, model, year and of course, what is it worth to you? Just how much would you pay to have that special car sitting on your drive at home?
Be realistic! Just because you can isn't a good enough reason to buy a chassis of a 1926 Rolls Royce if you have no idea where to get the rest of the car and no idea of what to do with the parts if you can get them. Providing you followed the advice above on checking the car over, you should have a good idea of whether you are bidding for a car you can drive away or one that will take months before it even has wheels.
If you read the magazines, talked to the owners club and browsed the Internet to get a good idea of what your aimed for car is selling for, then you should have a price in mind that you will pay for the car depending on its condition.
Most classic car insurance policies include an agreed value based on the market value of the car. At the end of the day, it is up to you and your budget. If you feel happy with what you have paid for your car then that is all that matters.
The basic rules for Internet Auctions.
Identify what you want - and have some idea how much you want to pay. Set a budget
only you know what you can afford to spend, or borrow. Use classic car magazine price guides and real adverts to see what your classic will cost to buy. Ideally hold back 10 percent to cover any unexpected problems. Calculate running costs by looking at mpg figures. Get insurance quotes: classic cars can be covered on cost-effective limited-mileage policies and are often surprisingly cheap to insure. Remember also that pre 1972 vehicles also have no road fund licence to pay. Talk to owners about how costly your classic will be to run.
Join the owners club. A huge resource of expertise can be found in owners clubs. Not only will they have some of the best looked-after cars but they have huge amounts of knowledge on the subject of buying and running your chosen classic. They often have cheap insurance and parts schemes, too.
Get an anorak ! No really - buy some books on your chosen classic, read magazines and become a classic-car bore. Research on the Internet and visit Classic Car Shows to talk to owners. You can never know too much.
Select a range of examples available... and do not let the cash burn a hole in your pocket. There are thousands of cars for sale every day so be patient, if it is not there today, it will be soon.
Check the sellers location - are you prepared to travel to inspect and then collect the car if you win the auction. Do you need to consider the cost of having your new pride and joy collected by a car transport service or could you hire a trailer and collect it yourself ?
Check out the seller. Read all the feedback for the last three months, negative feedback should ring alarm bells Ring him/her and get to know about your seller. Why is it being sold etc. Things like "Why are you selling the car?", "Does it come with any spare parts?", "How long have you had it?", "Is there any rot?", "Does it have any history?" MOT's, receipts etc. can be helpful for the rebuild. If you know any specifics about the car you are enquiring about then ask any of the questions you feel you need answers for. It could save you a long drive and time away if you have the necessary information before you leave.
If a vehicle has less than 3 months MOT ask the seller if they would be willing to send the car for a fresh MOT - to correct an MOT failure could be expensive.
In the event of a car being sold as an MOT failure, ask the seller to specify the list of failures, then give your local garage a ring and ask them to give you a quote for the work that needs to be carried out. this will give you some idea of the costs involved in getting the vehicle through its MOT It will save you time and money in the long run, no point in bidding on a vehicle that is going to be to costly to put back on the road.
Keep copies of all emails sent and received between you and the seller. they will come in handy if a dispute or conflict arises over the description of the item or any promises the seller makes you.
Check if the seller is a private individual or a dealer - there are many people who buy junk from car auctions and then simply try to pass them off as their own vehicles for a quick profit.
If the seller is a trader passing themselves off as a private seller and they are willing to lie about their status what else are they willing to lie about!!
If the vehicle is being sold by a private seller, ask them how long they owned the vehicle for? is the logbook registered in their name and at their home address? if it is a genuine private sale, then the answers to the above questions should be yes!! if the answer is no to any of the above walk away.
A few examples of the excuses usually given by traders posing as private sellers for not having the vehicle registered in their name "I bought the car for wife/husband or family member and they don't like it" "insurance to high" (people will usually always get an insurance quote before buying a car)"wife/husband did not like the car" "too big or too fast" or "they failed their driving test" "I bought the car as a stop gap"
ring any bells? I am sure you have heard at least one of the above and I have heard them all.
Remember it is a Legal Requirement to register a vehicle in your name regardless of how long you intend on keeping the car.
A reputable trader should and will disclose the fact that they are a trader, remember if you buy through the trade they may have certain obligations to rectify any problems with the car.
In the event that you have bought the car without prior inspection, before you go to collect the car, print out the item page and take it with you. If the seller has mis- described the item in anyway, you will have proof in your hands to argue your case.
If buying from a private seller, always meet the seller at their home address which should match the address the car is registered at. If there is a problem at least you will have an address to go back to. Do not agree to "meet on the Tesco car park as it will be easier than finding my house "
When you go to collect the vehicle if you are unsure about the vehicle or the seller walk away. Never part with your hard earned money until you are satisfied.
Once you have handed your money over, you will not be able to get it back! If you have not viewed the car do not pay prior to collection, if you do you will have little choice but to take the car away or lose all your money.
What's the worst that can happen if you walk away? the seller will give you negative feedback. its better to have one negative feedback than a car which is going to cause you lots of problems and cost you time and money. You can always argue your case with the online auction site and you may get the feedback comment removed.
As a winning bidder you have a legal obligation to complete the transaction,however the seller has a greater obligation to be honest about themselves and the item they are selling. If the seller has misdescribed the vehicle and you do not complete the transaction they are very unlikely to take legal action against you for not completing the deal. Remember however if you simply change your mind and walk away without good reason the seller may take steps to recover the money from you.
The basic rules apply even if you are buying from a trader or private seller if something sounds to good to be true then it usually is !!!
I hope that you have found this guide helpful and that using this advice when purchasing a classic car online will help you to avoid the pitfalls and hopefully you will end up with a classic car to use and enjoy over the coming years.
Andrew Lack - A Director of the Lancashire Classic Car Company Brook Classics. I have been buying and selling Classic Cars via Internet Auctions for over ten years so am well qualified to give advice in this field.http://www.brook-classics.co.ukhttp://www.classic-lots.co.uk
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Andrew_Lack
Thursday, 18 February 2010
Wednesday, 17 February 2010
Tips For Collecting Classic Motorcycles
If you though that collecting classic motorcycles was a bad investment think again! You can buy four or even five of such bikes for the price of a car. They even take up far less garage space.
Since 2000, the sales of classic motorcycles have doubled. Among the higher end bikes, the Brough Superior SS100, a British bike, which was used in the film, "Lawrence of Arabia", now commands a six figure price in dollars. Don't panic - the prices of such bikes are not as high and are close to $10,000. For $5000, you can get an Italian 1950s Vespa scooter and for about $20,000 you can land up with a British classic motorcycle like Triumph. You can choose from a whole range of British, Italian, American, German and Japanese classic motorcycles.
What you need to look out for while buying them is paying the correct value. If you are inexperienced you might just end up spending on a bike which does not have original parts. Experts can tell you if the serial number of the bike is original or has been forged.
If plan to get into collecting classic motorcycles, make it a point to visit rallies, meets and other events. Subscribe to publications like Vintage Motorcycle and Walneck's Classic Cycle Trader. Look up any local clubs in your area and become a member. This way you will get to meet other collectors and exchange information.
When you start buying classic motorcycles for your collection, look for bikes that started off as expensive, such as limited edition, hand-built ones like Crocker, Brough, Vincent and Mondial.
The rarest examples of American made classic motorcycles are those made before the year 1920. There are only 200 known classic motorcycles that were made in that era and were produced by brands like Harley-Davidson, Indian, Excelsior, Cyclone and Flying Merkel. Most of these models have either been sold as scrap or traded privately. In the 1980s, an original paint 1907 Harley-Davidson came up for auction at a farm in Nebraska and sold for the rice of $175,000.
One of the rarest models that one can find is the Grand Prix race bikes in original condition. The Japanese made ones are among the most difficult to find because their engineering was supposed to kept a secret. So after a race, the bikes were compacted so that competitors could not study their inner parts. Japanese examples of such bikes are particularly scarce; since their engineering was considered top-secret.
The values of classic motorcycles are that much higher when their parts and finish are original. If you are not sure if a bike is original, call in an expert.
Gabriel enjoys writing up on a variety of subjects. Other than the above topic, he also likes to set up sites on different topics. Do check out his new site which covers useful information on coffee table furniture.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Gabriel_Stiller
Since 2000, the sales of classic motorcycles have doubled. Among the higher end bikes, the Brough Superior SS100, a British bike, which was used in the film, "Lawrence of Arabia", now commands a six figure price in dollars. Don't panic - the prices of such bikes are not as high and are close to $10,000. For $5000, you can get an Italian 1950s Vespa scooter and for about $20,000 you can land up with a British classic motorcycle like Triumph. You can choose from a whole range of British, Italian, American, German and Japanese classic motorcycles.
What you need to look out for while buying them is paying the correct value. If you are inexperienced you might just end up spending on a bike which does not have original parts. Experts can tell you if the serial number of the bike is original or has been forged.
If plan to get into collecting classic motorcycles, make it a point to visit rallies, meets and other events. Subscribe to publications like Vintage Motorcycle and Walneck's Classic Cycle Trader. Look up any local clubs in your area and become a member. This way you will get to meet other collectors and exchange information.
When you start buying classic motorcycles for your collection, look for bikes that started off as expensive, such as limited edition, hand-built ones like Crocker, Brough, Vincent and Mondial.
The rarest examples of American made classic motorcycles are those made before the year 1920. There are only 200 known classic motorcycles that were made in that era and were produced by brands like Harley-Davidson, Indian, Excelsior, Cyclone and Flying Merkel. Most of these models have either been sold as scrap or traded privately. In the 1980s, an original paint 1907 Harley-Davidson came up for auction at a farm in Nebraska and sold for the rice of $175,000.
One of the rarest models that one can find is the Grand Prix race bikes in original condition. The Japanese made ones are among the most difficult to find because their engineering was supposed to kept a secret. So after a race, the bikes were compacted so that competitors could not study their inner parts. Japanese examples of such bikes are particularly scarce; since their engineering was considered top-secret.
The values of classic motorcycles are that much higher when their parts and finish are original. If you are not sure if a bike is original, call in an expert.
Gabriel enjoys writing up on a variety of subjects. Other than the above topic, he also likes to set up sites on different topics. Do check out his new site which covers useful information on coffee table furniture.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Gabriel_Stiller
Friday, 12 February 2010
Sports Cars Are a Lot of Fun
Countless people dream about cruising down the highway driving an expensive sports car. Why wouldn't you want to drive along a ribbon of highway passing fields of green while a field of blue arches over you? Sports cars are a lot of fun. They're fast and look terrific. These performance cars can drive from zero to one hundred kms in under 5 seconds. Not surprisingly they cost a fortune! This is why numerous folks like to test-drive thes cars with a sports rental agency rather than buying one at the outset.
There are numerous reasons why your may not want to rent a regular car but a sports rental may be a great idea. Firstly, should you require transportation for a business trip, and you know that you will be on your own for most of the trip, why not enjoy the travel time? Let's face it, your rental car won't cost that much more and it'll be a more relaxing productive business trip when you rent one.
Your insurance package won't be too different either. Speaking of business travel or a weekend getaway, you might be able to impress your friend or client. It's really simple to impress people when you take them to dinner or lunch in you're great looking expensive sports rental. Everyone drives these cars to look good. Renting this kind of car may be one of the finest ways to secure that elusive contract for your home office.
You could rent a car for that special occasion too. There are certainly lots of reasons to do a car rental. However, the most important thing is that you will finally have the chance to drive around in a car that is sleek and stylish, and you won't' have to worry about how to pay for it in the end. This is probably the biggest reason that a person might choose to do a sports rental, even for only a short amount of time.
Renting a sports car offers the best and most affordable rental contracts for quality sports; prestige and classic luxury car rentals. A number of rental agencies have luxurious cars available be they classic and prestige, which are genuinely affordable. Renting these cars can mean you'll experience a thrill of a lifetime, as opposed to a regular car, without breaking your bank account. Many agencies offer midweek special offers. You will be surprised at just how affordable the low rates are.
An alternative to a regular car is the rental agency's weekend plus super-saver offers. Some rental agency gift vouchers afford the customer a discount on the rental for a sports, prestige, or classic car rental. These vouchers afford the customers the opportunity to receive a really special and unique gift.
Ken Morris usually publishes news stories on things related to rental cars at Malaga airport. His work on cheap car hire in Malaga are published on his webpage and different web publications.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ken_C._Morris
There are numerous reasons why your may not want to rent a regular car but a sports rental may be a great idea. Firstly, should you require transportation for a business trip, and you know that you will be on your own for most of the trip, why not enjoy the travel time? Let's face it, your rental car won't cost that much more and it'll be a more relaxing productive business trip when you rent one.
Your insurance package won't be too different either. Speaking of business travel or a weekend getaway, you might be able to impress your friend or client. It's really simple to impress people when you take them to dinner or lunch in you're great looking expensive sports rental. Everyone drives these cars to look good. Renting this kind of car may be one of the finest ways to secure that elusive contract for your home office.
You could rent a car for that special occasion too. There are certainly lots of reasons to do a car rental. However, the most important thing is that you will finally have the chance to drive around in a car that is sleek and stylish, and you won't' have to worry about how to pay for it in the end. This is probably the biggest reason that a person might choose to do a sports rental, even for only a short amount of time.
Renting a sports car offers the best and most affordable rental contracts for quality sports; prestige and classic luxury car rentals. A number of rental agencies have luxurious cars available be they classic and prestige, which are genuinely affordable. Renting these cars can mean you'll experience a thrill of a lifetime, as opposed to a regular car, without breaking your bank account. Many agencies offer midweek special offers. You will be surprised at just how affordable the low rates are.
An alternative to a regular car is the rental agency's weekend plus super-saver offers. Some rental agency gift vouchers afford the customer a discount on the rental for a sports, prestige, or classic car rental. These vouchers afford the customers the opportunity to receive a really special and unique gift.
Ken Morris usually publishes news stories on things related to rental cars at Malaga airport. His work on cheap car hire in Malaga are published on his webpage and different web publications.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ken_C._Morris
Monday, 8 February 2010
Sunday, 7 February 2010
MX5 First Time Guyers Guide
MX5/Eunos Buying guide.
The market.
Because of the huge number of MX5s built, there are often quite a few on the market at any given time and it apparent when you first start looking that prices vary tremendously for seemingly similar cars. Why can you pick up an MX5 on Ebay for less than £1000 while some of the specialists are asking for £3500 for a very similar looking car? Once you actually go out and start physically looking at cars, it often becomes all too clear: I know because I do this every week. Its amazing how many MX5s advertised as being in ‘superb condition’ need a new roof, a good service a couple tyres, a spot of welding and host of minor problems sorting out. Its also surprising just how many have been insurance write offs. Before you know it, you’ve blown £1000. A cheap car is usually cheap for a reason. If you don’t mind a load of hassle and are happy taking a risk, Ebay is one way of buying a cheap car. I like to keep my cars competitively priced and at least you know you are buying something thats genuine and decent.
The number one rule when buying an MX5
It very simple: buy on condition and you'll invariably buy a better car. A two year old car costs more than a four year old car, right? And a four year old car costs more than a six year old car. However, when the car is over 12 or so years old, things change. Condition becomes very important, not the number of owners or the mileage or the letter on the end of the number plate. Condition is everything. I’ve sold some fantastic ‘G’ plate MX5s and seen some horrendous rust boxes 5 or 6 years newer.
Imports v UK cars.
When I refer to imported cars, I mean cars that were originally sold in Japan (called the Eunos, by the way). I must admit that I’m a great fan of the so called ‘imported’ models: I say ‘so called’ because ALL MX5s were built on the same production line in Hiroshima, Japan. All MX5s were undersealed to the same standard regardless of where they were to be sold. We love chucking tons of salt on our roads here in the UK (the Japanese prefer snow tyres and snow chains) and generally, UK cars suffer more bodywork problems because of this. In fact I tend not to buy in many UK spec cars simply because of the rust issues.The Japanese are very discerning when it comes to sports cars and consequently the Japanese imports are often of a higher specification than UK cars, with electric windows, air conditioning and power steering usually found as standard. The Japanese were also very fond of releasing special edition models, often with a really desirable specification, such as leather seats, LSD and up rated trim and suspension. Parts and servicing are no problem for an imported car – 99.9% of parts are exactly the same as the UK cars and there are a huge number of aftermarket suppliers.
1.6 or 1.8?
I probably get asked about this more than any other aspect of an MX5 purchase. Lets look at the facts: when new, the 1.6 was good for 114bhp while the 1.8 produced 130bhp, an increase of 15% and had around 10% more torque, produced lower down the rev range. However the 1.8 is a little heavier (50-70kg depending on exact model) so performance is not so different – an extra couple of mph on top speed and a couple of tenths of a second quicker to 60mph. Remember all these figures apply to nice shiny new cars: time and useage will have played a big part in how they drive now. In reality, a 1.8 has a little more low power and seems to cope with motorway cruising a little more easily than a 1.6 but I reckon most people wouldn’t notice the difference. The 1.6 is a sweeter revving engine and a few well chosen modifications will significantly boost bhp and driving fun. In fact the 1.6 cars are the default choice for enthusiasts wishing to undertake serious tuning – fitting either super or turbochargers for example.The real world answer is forget the engine and just concentrate on finding the nicest car you can. The exception to this is the late model UK 1.6 introduced in 1995: this was detuned to around 88bhp and is noticeably slower than the early 1.6 cars.
Special Editions
Mazda loved producing special edition models as a way of keeping interest in the car. Although engines are usually all the same, suspension, trim and equipment levels can vary tremendously. For example, two commonly seen specials are the V-Special (nearly always finished in Mazda’s version of British Racing Green) which has a rather eye-catching tan leather interior and a limited slip differential amongst other things, while the S-Special has uprated Bilstein suspension, an engine strut brace and a Nardi leather steering wheel as standard. The S-Ltd, on the other hand, has both leather trim and Bilstein suspension … I know - its complicated and that’s not to mention the other 20+ special editions!The bottom line is that all are great cars simply because the original design was so good and after that, its down to personal taste and occasionally, money.
Modifications
Lots of cars that pass through my hands have been modified so its worth mentioning. Theres a huge parts aftermarket out there and lots of folk like to chuck lots of money at their pride and joy. However this is not always a good thing: you have no idea of how many cars I come across that have had their suspension ‘uprated’ or ‘utterly ruined’ as I like to more accurately call it. Its great fun driving a car with ultra low suspension on a race track but not much fun when you can’t even negotiate a speed bump without removing the exhaust system. A car with super stiff suspension will also rattle the teeth out of your head in every day use, which isn’t actually much fun. I’m not against modifications (my own car has a few) and there is certainly a healthy market for modified cars. Suspension mods in particular can make a tremendous, positive difference to the car. But the point is that the client needs to fully understand exactly what they are buying: therefore I will always point out exactly what modifications have been carried out on any car I sell, just to ensure that it really is going to be suitable for you.
Time for a story.
I think this experience best illustrates the difference between buying from me and buying privately: a friend of mine recently agreed to buy an MX5 from a private seller so off he went to view the car and do the deal. When he saw the car, it was apparent that the seller hadn’t been completely honest on the phone: the front wing advertised as having ‘only a slight paint blister’ was actually totally rotten beyond repair. Anyway, a deal was still done at a much reduced price and off he drove. Then it got dark. Upon turning the headlights on, it was apparent all was not well: one headlight was very dim and almost useless and the rear fog light had been wired up so that it was permanently on, attracting the wrath of fellow motorists. Then the car started misfiring badly: he pulled into a service station only to find the bonnet was well and truly jammed shut: it was dark, raining and he had a car that was running like a pig, had rubbish lights, needed a large handful of cash throwing at it and he was miles from home.I don’t think this experience is too unusual, judging by some the stories my customers tell me about cars they have viewed and I guess that’s why they buy from me: every car is checked over thoroughly, every car is serviced, it will run properly and the new owner can get on with the business of enjoying his or her car without having to stick their hand in their pocket straight away.
Go to my site http://www.goodwoodsportscars.co.uk/
The market.
Because of the huge number of MX5s built, there are often quite a few on the market at any given time and it apparent when you first start looking that prices vary tremendously for seemingly similar cars. Why can you pick up an MX5 on Ebay for less than £1000 while some of the specialists are asking for £3500 for a very similar looking car? Once you actually go out and start physically looking at cars, it often becomes all too clear: I know because I do this every week. Its amazing how many MX5s advertised as being in ‘superb condition’ need a new roof, a good service a couple tyres, a spot of welding and host of minor problems sorting out. Its also surprising just how many have been insurance write offs. Before you know it, you’ve blown £1000. A cheap car is usually cheap for a reason. If you don’t mind a load of hassle and are happy taking a risk, Ebay is one way of buying a cheap car. I like to keep my cars competitively priced and at least you know you are buying something thats genuine and decent.
The number one rule when buying an MX5
It very simple: buy on condition and you'll invariably buy a better car. A two year old car costs more than a four year old car, right? And a four year old car costs more than a six year old car. However, when the car is over 12 or so years old, things change. Condition becomes very important, not the number of owners or the mileage or the letter on the end of the number plate. Condition is everything. I’ve sold some fantastic ‘G’ plate MX5s and seen some horrendous rust boxes 5 or 6 years newer.
Imports v UK cars.
When I refer to imported cars, I mean cars that were originally sold in Japan (called the Eunos, by the way). I must admit that I’m a great fan of the so called ‘imported’ models: I say ‘so called’ because ALL MX5s were built on the same production line in Hiroshima, Japan. All MX5s were undersealed to the same standard regardless of where they were to be sold. We love chucking tons of salt on our roads here in the UK (the Japanese prefer snow tyres and snow chains) and generally, UK cars suffer more bodywork problems because of this. In fact I tend not to buy in many UK spec cars simply because of the rust issues.The Japanese are very discerning when it comes to sports cars and consequently the Japanese imports are often of a higher specification than UK cars, with electric windows, air conditioning and power steering usually found as standard. The Japanese were also very fond of releasing special edition models, often with a really desirable specification, such as leather seats, LSD and up rated trim and suspension. Parts and servicing are no problem for an imported car – 99.9% of parts are exactly the same as the UK cars and there are a huge number of aftermarket suppliers.
1.6 or 1.8?
I probably get asked about this more than any other aspect of an MX5 purchase. Lets look at the facts: when new, the 1.6 was good for 114bhp while the 1.8 produced 130bhp, an increase of 15% and had around 10% more torque, produced lower down the rev range. However the 1.8 is a little heavier (50-70kg depending on exact model) so performance is not so different – an extra couple of mph on top speed and a couple of tenths of a second quicker to 60mph. Remember all these figures apply to nice shiny new cars: time and useage will have played a big part in how they drive now. In reality, a 1.8 has a little more low power and seems to cope with motorway cruising a little more easily than a 1.6 but I reckon most people wouldn’t notice the difference. The 1.6 is a sweeter revving engine and a few well chosen modifications will significantly boost bhp and driving fun. In fact the 1.6 cars are the default choice for enthusiasts wishing to undertake serious tuning – fitting either super or turbochargers for example.The real world answer is forget the engine and just concentrate on finding the nicest car you can. The exception to this is the late model UK 1.6 introduced in 1995: this was detuned to around 88bhp and is noticeably slower than the early 1.6 cars.
Special Editions
Mazda loved producing special edition models as a way of keeping interest in the car. Although engines are usually all the same, suspension, trim and equipment levels can vary tremendously. For example, two commonly seen specials are the V-Special (nearly always finished in Mazda’s version of British Racing Green) which has a rather eye-catching tan leather interior and a limited slip differential amongst other things, while the S-Special has uprated Bilstein suspension, an engine strut brace and a Nardi leather steering wheel as standard. The S-Ltd, on the other hand, has both leather trim and Bilstein suspension … I know - its complicated and that’s not to mention the other 20+ special editions!The bottom line is that all are great cars simply because the original design was so good and after that, its down to personal taste and occasionally, money.
Modifications
Lots of cars that pass through my hands have been modified so its worth mentioning. Theres a huge parts aftermarket out there and lots of folk like to chuck lots of money at their pride and joy. However this is not always a good thing: you have no idea of how many cars I come across that have had their suspension ‘uprated’ or ‘utterly ruined’ as I like to more accurately call it. Its great fun driving a car with ultra low suspension on a race track but not much fun when you can’t even negotiate a speed bump without removing the exhaust system. A car with super stiff suspension will also rattle the teeth out of your head in every day use, which isn’t actually much fun. I’m not against modifications (my own car has a few) and there is certainly a healthy market for modified cars. Suspension mods in particular can make a tremendous, positive difference to the car. But the point is that the client needs to fully understand exactly what they are buying: therefore I will always point out exactly what modifications have been carried out on any car I sell, just to ensure that it really is going to be suitable for you.
Time for a story.
I think this experience best illustrates the difference between buying from me and buying privately: a friend of mine recently agreed to buy an MX5 from a private seller so off he went to view the car and do the deal. When he saw the car, it was apparent that the seller hadn’t been completely honest on the phone: the front wing advertised as having ‘only a slight paint blister’ was actually totally rotten beyond repair. Anyway, a deal was still done at a much reduced price and off he drove. Then it got dark. Upon turning the headlights on, it was apparent all was not well: one headlight was very dim and almost useless and the rear fog light had been wired up so that it was permanently on, attracting the wrath of fellow motorists. Then the car started misfiring badly: he pulled into a service station only to find the bonnet was well and truly jammed shut: it was dark, raining and he had a car that was running like a pig, had rubbish lights, needed a large handful of cash throwing at it and he was miles from home.I don’t think this experience is too unusual, judging by some the stories my customers tell me about cars they have viewed and I guess that’s why they buy from me: every car is checked over thoroughly, every car is serviced, it will run properly and the new owner can get on with the business of enjoying his or her car without having to stick their hand in their pocket straight away.
Go to my site http://www.goodwoodsportscars.co.uk/
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